Saturday, May 23, 2009

Lesson #1, or What Civilised People Eat

(It certainly isn't cheeseburgers, it isn't)

While still in Boston--which, despite all my pretend upturned noses, I have deep affection for--I made a list of things I would devour once I was back home, with preferred methods of cooking specified wherever applicable (I'm obsessive that way). Predictably, and aided by the subzero temps, my list began with biryani, and traversed kormas, koshas, rezalas, kalias, chNaaps, pulaos, and malaicurrys to reach the ultimate dessert: a rich, scrumptious, home-made pulir payesh--the pulis crisp with an outer layer of grated coconut and flour, but softened within by the gur (alas, no nolen gur this beastly time of the year) and a small amount of khoa kheer, garnished with slivered almonds and a few strands of saffron, so delicate they'd distintegrate around the neighbouring kishmish, plumped by the thin sweet milk under the thick kheer.

Plus I'd actually have proper Sunday breakfasts. Luchis, which I prefer soft and a golden-white as opposed to crispier and just turning golden-brown, and a basic but delcious alurdom, flavoured with tomatoes and garnished with dhone pata (which Americans call cilantro--quite a pleasing, if strange, name). Aluparathas without onions in the potato filling, and moglai parathas (my talent for killing a dish with words manifested itself once again when I called a moglai paratha "crisply fried thick paraths folded on itself in a triangle or a square to hold in a batter of eggs, salt, chopped onions and chopped chillies". My audience, who failed to realise frying the paratha cooks the batter too, went "Ewww! Gross!" in unison). And the deliciously deceptive koraishutir, hinger, or daaler kochuri--bloody time consuming to make and gobbled in a flash. I remember trying to describe the difference between hinger and daaler kochuri to someone on the local train once. "One is puri--the small puffs you get Indian restaurants?--with a filling of daal and asafoetida pasted together. The other is a puri filled with a different kind of daal paste cooked with slightly different spices". The lady kindly nodded her head, clearly not seeing the difference, and I feel like the sort of idiot whose head should be banged against a wall. Any wall. And then I did further damage by stating koraishutir kochuri's filling is made of a paste of "green peas and hot green chillies". I think I have put her off Bengali breakfasts forever.

Once I am done with that, I thought, I shall delve into the more mundane but no less heavenly alu-jhinga-posto, which I used to also inadequately translate as "potatoes and gourd in poppy-seed paste". And moog daal with aloo and begun bhaja. And I'd have prawns and diced pieces of chicken (marinated in garlic, a tiny bit of chopped ginger, salt, and lime juice) tossed and then simmered in chopped onions, chopped green chillies, and a few grated halves of tomatoes. Simple, but delicious. Then maybe a brief detour of Indian Chinese (chillie chicken, bless the US with thy presence!) before hitting the phuchkas, jhalmuris, egg-rolls, egg-chicken rolls, and mutton sami rolls (I really feel for this lady, the poor dear). And every time my sweet-tooth tickled, I could whip up a batch of malpoas in matter of minutes (give or take thirty).

However, what I've actually eaten in the last dizzyingly hot three days--bypassing the fragrant biryani and the payesh, awaiting my pleasure--is parboiled rice, mushur daal cooked the Bengali way (NO onions), pNuier dNata chochhori*, a light phulkopir daalna (no ghee, no tomatoes, and careful amounts of gorom moshla wonly), and the predictably Bengali machher jhol made with freshly-caught sweetwater (river) rui, and not aNshte bloody seafish, thank goodness! Breakfast, I've slept through, and have had chilled mangoes**, lichu and jamrul for dessert and general sustenance throughout the day.

And bigods, I've never felt this well-fed in a long, long time. Bless homecoming.

--
*pNui is possibly Malabar spinach, quite different from regular spinach. And chochhori is a slightly dry curry made of the spinach, the veins of the leaves, slices of potatoes, pumpkins, and sometimes a few pieces of brinjal. When cooked in summer, our cook+my mum+my aunts and greataunts convert the chochhori to a torkari, such that there is more gravy and less shallow frying of the vegetables.

** are lyangras is the market yet? Where I live we only get himshagor and other lesser variants, and himshagor is too sweet for me.

21 comments:

Rimi said...

Coming soon: unpretentious Bengali recipes. Oof! The over-spiced monstrosities that turned up when I googled simple things like "begun bhaja" or "machher jhol" yanks believability beyond it's elastic limit. Some precious kitchen goddess in exile apparently cooks machher jhol with sun-dried tomatoes and oregano. May she be forgiven...though I for one would certainly vote against it x-(

Rhea Silvia said...

machherjhol with oregano?

i don't even like machh, and still...

in other news, welcome home.

Delo said...

Rimi,how u must be missing home?Our son who's studying at TUFTS,must be as well.His Aloo ka paratha is always waiting for him as soon as he lands.The rest follows thereafter.......

Diviani said...

Same boat. I still haven't made a trip to GrubClub. Blasted heat. But sweetmotherofjesus my mother plied me with all my favorites the day I landed. In hog heaven, I am, truly.

sandman said...

Torture.Pure fucking unadulterated at that.

But then atleast you won't gripe for a while.

Rimi said...

Rhea--I don't like machh either, but we get REALLY fresh rui where I live (one of the advantages of living in the outskirts of the city) and I absolutely love the alu-bori diye kalo jeerar jhol.

But yes. Idiot woman.

Delo--hello! Welcome to the blog. Your son must be coming home any day now--if he isn't home already! I hope those alooparathas are fattening him up while he's here :-)

Diviani--GrubClub can go hang. Chochhori and torkari and chNchhki and daal is like omrito right now :D

R.O--hee hee. Eijonnoi barir chhele barite thaka uchit. Oto ghure berale ki barir khabar paoao jaaye?

thalassa_mikra said...

Fantastic post! And of course, sheer torture to read since even half-decent versions of all these dishes are hard to find here in LA.

Though, ahem, my mother does make mushur daal with onions and so does my grandma. Might be a western Bardhaman thing.

Rimi said...

Swati--Or, it could be an influence of my Bangal heritage, straight out of Bikrompur. There are so many variants of Bengali cooking that it's difficult to pin down anything at all as "authentic", beyond certain general parameters of bhaat-daal-chocchori-chNenchhki-machher jhol. The pulir payesh made at my grandmother's place, for instance, isn't like any other pulir payesh I have had elsewhere.

Delo said...

yeah ,he is bt soon to leave for various interships 'n then bck to Boston 1st wk of Sept.Thank u for such a warm welcome.Like both,Moosur Dal with/without onions.Hole i holo!

Rimi said...

Most welcome :-) I return in the first week of September as well!

Mushur daal onion diye amar aekdomi bhalo laage na. Force of habit, I think.

Delo said...

We Bong Delhiites long for nething Bong.Evn go to Sirifort to see those rare put up Bong movies just to hear Bong comments.They are so out of ths world! Getting too personal,but are you at TUFTS?Never mind........

March Hare said...

@Rimi - Bikrampur you say? As in,Dhaka Bikrampur?
Much yayness then. For we come from the same place.
High five!

p.s. Did you know Feluda comes from Dhaka-Bikrampur too? I just discovered it last week and am much kicked.

Rimi said...

Bee--highfive! And yes, I did. As does Shirshendu Mukhopadhyay. Not that it means anything to them but for us bits of gunomugdha nothingness, well... :-)

panu said...

ah... so when do we meet up now that you're here??

Namrata said...

oh god i just stumbled across your blog and read this post...and now i'm starving...
i live in the middle east, and being the anomaly in a south indian family who LOVES bengali food...there is no sustenance for me here!!
i think i just drooled on my keyboard...

Delo said...

Namrata,yr comment made me smile 'n its so from the heart.Welcome aboard!

sandman said...

Koi recipe-gulo? chai chai

And I just saw a pic of our ancestral home in faridpur, they've made it a museum.What a waste of a nautch hall.

*zaalim zamindar mode on*

khonmanrak said...

ลงประกาศฟรี ลงโฆษณาฟรี,ภาพเคลื่อนไหว

Delo said...

Rimi,love reading yr write-ups.Yr love for BANGLA RANNA makes me wonder how u survive in Boston.Son loves his Aaloo ka paratha with or without onions.Hole i holo.
Yr Sunday menu of Luchi made me make a mental note of making it this Sunday for sure for soon it will be time for him to leave for Boston.U stay in my favourite city Kolkata and the mention of all those dishes made me nostalgic!

AMIT said...

Good post.You write very well.

Lingerie news

tania said...

Discovered your blog last evening through another site. Awesome! And, may I say how much I have started visualizing these dishes as I go through this post? Torture, indeed!:)

BTW, I am another 'probashi' bengali - straight out of East Bengal. Greetings! Glad I found your blog. Please keep it up!

-Tani